Installation Instructions Technical Specifications MSDS Information Warranty Information Full Product Brochure Order Samples

Tool List

For local tool purchases look in the yellow pages under carpet installers equipment and supplies.

• Extension Wall Roller
• Blue Slotted Blades (100 quantity) for razor knife
• Razor Knife
• Carpet Tucker (stair tool)
• 3/16 x 5/32 Trowel- V notched
• Loop Pile Cutter
• Econo-Knee Kicker
• Aviation Snips
• Notched Spatula
• Applicator Bottle for seam bond
• Tool Box

• Sisal is a natural fiber that reacts to excess moisture in other types of wallcovering and multi-purpose adhesive by shrinking before the adhesive dries and sets, which is normally during the first 24 hours after the wallcovering has been applied to the wall.
• Sisal #1-422 Adhesive contains fire retardant for passage of the NFPA test method, which is used by national commercial fire codes such as the Uniform Building Code.

• Airborne moisture causes the adhesive to dry slow and may cause the sisal wallcovering to shrink at the seams and edges. Avoid this condition by installing sisal wallcovering in climate control buildings or use mechanical fans at the point of installation to provide air movement. Keeping all doorways to the outside of the building closed is also recommended.

1. For ease of troweling the low water content #1-422 Sisal Adhesive, apply adhesive to primed new walls or previously painted walls. On walls that have been stripped of old wallcovering, priming the old adhesive is not necessary.
2. Use a 3/16 th x 5/32 nd V-notched trowel. Check previously used trowels since the notch depth can be scraped flat with use.
3. Spread adhesive over the entire surface. Spots left uncovered with adhesive cause air pockets.
4. A good bond with the wallcovering can only occur when the wallcovering is pressed into the adhesive. An indicator of a good bond is that the back of the wallcovering leaves its imprint in the adhesive. Pull back a corner of the wallcovering after pressing the adhesive in place, if you see the trowel marks instead of the wallcovering imprint, then there should be more pressure placed on the wallcovering surface. A "good" imprint of the sisal shows the highs and lows of the ribbed texture, and not the trowel notches.
5. A hand held, hard rubber roller (#333) is the best tool for pressing the wallcovering into the adhesive. It has an extension handle that will leverage the right amount of pressure. Hand pressure and broad knife pressure are not good substitutes because of insufficient amount of pressure.
6. The wallcovering can be placed into the adhesive immediately after troweling. The maximum exposed time of spread adhesive is typically 25 minutes. This time may be longer with high humidity or shorter with dry and hot conditions. The surface of the adhesive will begin to "skin over" as the indicator of the maximum exposed time.

1. Hang the wallcovering in "panels" : Cut the wallcovering off the roll in increments that match the height the wallcovering will reach on the wall. Place these panels cuts side to side on the wall to make vertical seams. When installed in the panel method the ribs of the weaving will run horizontally on the wall. Aligning the ribs at the seams is not entirely possible because uneven natural fibers and yarn.
   
   When installed in the panel method the ribs of the weaving will run horizontally on the wall. Aligning the ribs at the seams is not entirely possible because uneven natural fibers and yarn.
   
2. The two sides of the wallcovering have a factory edge that needs to be trimmed off before the side to side seams are placed on the wall
3. The strength of sisal fiber requires the use of razor blades that hold their edge longer and are held in an easy to change knife. The only knife recommended is the offset handled carpet knife that holds rectangle-slotted blades. Replacement blades should be square corner and a tempered blue edge. Cutting and trimming sisal will quickly dull razor edges. As the razor edge loses its sharpness, snagging of the weaving occurs. When snags occur, seaming and edge trimming become unacceptable. It is typical to change the razor edge after 2-3 long cuts through sisal wallcovering, even with the recommended razor blades. Avoid the use of utility razor knives or wallpaper blades. A pair of scissors is recommended as a secondary cutting tool for trimming difficult to reach spots with the carpet razor knife.
4. The woven construction of the wallcovering makes a straight edge unnecessary. When cutting from side to side, follow the ribs of the material. When cutting across the ribs, follow a buried reed.
5. Seams are formed by butt seaming., do not attempt to double cut through sisal layers.

1. Length splitting of the 13ft wide factory rolls require a large cutting floor and additional labor expense.
2. The waste factor of railroading needs to be considered when splitting across the width of the 13ft wide rolls.
3. Avoid vertical seams when railroading because the seam edges will not close entirely due to natural fiber expanding
4. Avoid stretching the long lengths of sisal wallcovering by applying the material in the adhesive in increments. This prevents the wallcovering from pulling away from doorways and other termination when the stretch in the material relaxes. Maintain the straightness of the ribbed pattern so that outside corners can be wrapped without the ribs snaking around the corner.
5. Termination edges at the sides of door jambs and at inside corners will not close entirely due to natural fiber expanding. Finish moulding to cover the edges at termination points will tighten the appearance.
6. When railroading sisal wallcovering at heights taller than a short waincot, additional installers are required to control the weight and to avoid stretch marks in the weaving.

1. When installing from the 13ft wide wallcovering panels, pull from the roll the increment needed to cover the height specification.
2. Cut the first panel across the width of the roll with the slotted razor knife or loop pile cutter. Follow the rib valley for a straight cut.
3. While the first cut panel is laying flat on the floor, trim the factory side edge off one side only.
4. Roll up the first cut panel side to side, start rolling from the side that still has the factory edge. Keeping the trimmed side edge on the outside when rolling will prevent the weave from raveling.
5. Stand the rolled up panel against the wall and align the outside edge (the trimmed edge) aproximately one inch over from where the edge will fall and place into the adhesive without rolling the surface. Unroll into the adhesive aproximately one foot of wallcovering, then slide the panel over to close the one inch gap. Sliding to close the one inch gap will keep the weaving at the trimmed edge from raveling.
6. Begin to unroll the balance of the wallcovering panel into the adhesive. Use the carpet stair tool to press spots of the material into the adhesive so that the wallcovering will adhere to the wall. Make alignment adjustments when unrolling gradually. Press only enough material into the adhesive to keep the panel upright on the wall.
7. Once the entire width has been aligned, its time to roll the entire surface of the wallcovering with the hand held roller. Apply enough pressure over the entire surface to leave an imprint of the wallcovering in the adhesive instead of the imprint left after troweling.
8. Once the entire surface has been rolled into place, the wallcovering panel it is difficult to adjust its position on the wall.
9. The second factory side edge is trimmed off after the panel is set in place. Trim aproximately ½ inch off, work from the ceiling down when trimming.
10. The next panel is now ready to be installed seamed side by side to the previously installed panel, repeating the same step by step procedures. Before starting the second panel, run a bead of seam bond aproximately ¼ inch from the outside edge of the first panel. When placing the second panel onto the wall, lay the seam edge on top of the seam bond and slide over to the first panel.

• Wrap outside corners-do not cut. This wallcovering is a stiff material that can be folded and creased enough to fit tightly around corners.
• Inside corners should be wrapped when possible when the panel width extends past the corner. Inside corners can also be used as a termination edge.

1. When a panel meets the side of a metal or wood door jamb, extend the wallcovering aproximately 3-4 inches past the outside edge of the jamb without pressing into the corner where the wall surface meets the jamb.
2. Cut through the wallcovering from the top of the jamb and follow the side of the jamb down as a blade guide. Do this cutting without pressing the wallcovering into the wall. Otherwise the edge will ravel as it is pushed past the metal door jamb.
3. Once the cut is completed along the side of the jamb, slide the wallcovering away from the jamb, aproximately ¼ inch with the carpet knee kicker.
4. Once the edge is clear from making contact with the jamb, press the edge into the adhesive with the stair tool.
5. Once the edge has been pressed into the adhesive, slide the wallcovering to close the gap along the door jamb sides.