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Fabrication, Installation, and Maintenance
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PaperStone’s component parts are quite simple and friendly to the earth. First, we use FSC-certified 100% post-consumer recycled paper saturated with our proprietary PetroFree™ phenolic resins containing ingredients like cashew nut shell liquid. Phenolic resins have been around for a century since Henry Baekeland invented Bakelite, the original, ubiquitous black thermoplastic case for rotary telephones. Phenolic resins have long been prized for their abrasion resistance and are still preferred for high quality automotive brake pads.
Once saturated, the sheets are fused together under heat and pressure. This cross-links the resin polymer in all three directions producing a dense, homogeneous and essentially non-porous composite product that does not delaminate. Ordinary paper is transformed into an extremely strong and durable solid surface material with incredible longevity and resistance to water. PaperStone® has a class A fire and smoke rating.
It is heat resistant to 350°F and has been certified ‘food safe’ by NSF, the
public health and safety company.
See also the Technical Specifications to help you decide if PaperStone® is the right material for your next project.
PaperStone can be machined using the same tools and techniques used with fine hardwoods and solid surfaces. The information presented here should be used in conjunction with an experienced fabricator. For fabricators new to working with PaperStone we recommend that you talk to a qualified distributor or fabricator for in-depth coverage of the topics introduced here.
Panel Size
The standard PaperStone panel is 60" x 144". Other panel sizes are available.
Panel Thickness
PaperStone panels are available in 1/2", 3/4", 1" and 1-1/4" thicknesses. * 1/2" thicknesses are for vertical installations only, warranty will not apply if installed horizontally.
Cutting Methods
PaperStone works much the same as hardwood and solid surface. Always observe
shop safety procedure and wear protective eyewear and clothing. Avoid
inhalation of dust.
Cut PaperStone dry. Slow the blade speed or increase the feed rate if you
detect excess heat. Fully support PaperStone before you begin cutting since
the blade could bind when the slab shifts as the cut proceeds. We recommend
using a triple chip carbide-tipped saw blade if possible and carbide-tipped
router bits.
Seaming and Bonding
Seams in PaperStone may show and should be incorporated into the design.
Because seams show, built-up edges are not recommended. Plan seams so they
are not next to sinks.
On a sturdy, level surface, set out spacer bars of uniform thickness and
place the PaperStone sections on them. Leave a gap between the two sections
that is slightly less than the width of a straight-edge router bit. Secure a
straightedge to the section and use the straightedge as a fence to run the
router through the gap so that the bit shaves a thin section of both edges
at once. This procedure is known as a mirror cut/joint. This will
create
edges that will perfectly match.
Prepare the mechanical strengthening and aligning of the joint using one of
the following two methods. Using a biscuit joiner, cut slots for standard
wood biscuits or rout the necessary holes for the type of tight-joint
fasteners typically used to connect sections of post-form laminate counters.
Glue the joint using a slow-drying two-part epoxy. CA5 adhesive may also be
used. Tint the epoxy by mixing in some of the sanding dust from a previous
step. Once the joint has cured, lightly sand it to blend the seam with the
surrounding area.
You can also seam using a 'superglue' type product like CA5 from 3M. With
CA5 you can attach two clean edges with a butt joint and clamp it. This will
produce a very strong and tight joint but it cannot be tinted.
It is possible to seal joints with standard caulking sealants. Typical areas
for this treatment are the underside of the backsplash and around
undermounted sinks. Use a moderate amount of caulk in a color compatible to
the PaperStone panel. A clear caulk may also be used.
Sanding and Finishing
PaperStone comes with a natural finish on both sides. Exposure during
shipping and handling may leave slight scratches. It is a natural product
that unlike other solid surfaces that have been machined to very high
tolerances, it may have small imperfections such as low and high areas.
PaperStone is bonded sheets of paper and excessive sanding could wear
through the topmost layer. For this reason we recommend that sanding and
finishing be minimal.
Natural products possess inherant characteristics that may give them slight
variations from panel to panel. A natural patina may emerge over time.
We have found that a satin sheen provides the most beautiful and easily
maintained day-to-day surface. Sanding should start with an abrasive no
coarser than a fiber abrasive pad such as a 3M Scotchbrite™ red or grey (Red
= fine; Grey = superfine). Place the abrasive pad on the surface and place
the random orbit sander pad at the center. Buff the entire surface until a
uniform sheen is achieved. Wipe thoroughly with a damp cloth to remove dust
and loose particles.
If machining marks exist on cut edges, a belt sander with 80 grit sandpaper
may be used as a first step finishing with 180 grit sandpaper. When
finishing Obsidian or Slate, sanding may begin with 180 grit sandpaper and
finished with the fiber abrasive pad.
A final treatment of PaperStone Finish is recommended despite its extremely
low porosity. It is an all-natural, eco-friendly and sustainable product.
All of the ingredients are natural and food safe.
Directions for Use:
To use PaperStone Finish, place the bottle under a stream of warm water to
make the fluid mix and flow more easily. Apply a thin coat to the surface
with a soft cloth. Let it stand for 20 minutes and then wipe off any excess.
Finish up using a clean, soft cloth to give an even, rich luster. For best
results, do not use finished area for at least 12 hours so that the finish
can harden.
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