Application Information MSDS Sheets

Application Information

General Application Guidlines

.pdf Format

1. What You Will Need
2. Preparing The Substrate
3. General Preparation
4. Prepping Surfaces
5. Applying ACE Sanded Primer
6. Mixing The Plaster
7. Using ACE Add-Mix
8. Applying The Plaster
9. Sealing
10. Applying Black Soap Enhancer
11. Straw & Mica Texture Additives
12. Re-coating ACE Plaster Walls
13. Clean Up

HOW TO - Repairing Plaster

We recommend that all project use a base-board or base-board treatment.In general, how you prepare a wall for plastering depends on the surface. Some walls will require an undercoat of American Clay Sanded Primer. A few substrates will need a brown coat prior to plastering. Others will require only cleaning and dusting.

How can I tell if my walls are sealed?
Sealed walls will not allow water to soak in.
Here's a quick test:
1. Using a spray bottle, lightly spray the wall with water.
2. If water beads on the surface, your wall is sealed.
3. If the water soaks into the wall surface, it's not sealed.
Repeat the test on several areas of the wall to make sure any sealer has been uniformly applied.
Note: a) New Gysum drywall must always be primed
     b) If ANY of the surfaces in Category III are smooth troweled or "appear sealed" always apply American Clay Sanded Primer.

SUBSTRATE CATEGORY I
Surfaces requiring an undercoat of American Clay Sanded Primer
. Newly installed drywall and surfaces finished with joint compound
. Painted or sealed surfaces (i.e. any painted or sealed surface, including drywall, greenboard and gypsum plasters, as well as recently repaired walls).
. Slick surfaces (i.e. smooth troweled plasters and cements and smooth or
polished stone)
. Gypsum plasters such as Structo-LiteTM or GypsoliteTM
. Blueboard, all surfaces should be primed with American Clay Sanded Primer
. ACE plaster that has been sealed

SUBSTRATE CATEGORY II
Surfaces requiring a base coat or brown coat of fibered cement, lime plaster, or a site-based earth plaster, or drywall or brick or other sheathing recommended by the contractor:
. Unfinished adobe, cob, or rammed earth
. Rastra® or Perform WallTM
. Foam building-form blocks-i.e. Poly-Steel
. Unsurfaced straw bale or light clay
. Aerated autoclaved concrete blocks: i.e., HebelTM block, e-creteTM
. Unsealed monolithic (poured) concrete
. Unsealed, sealed, or painted brick, concrete block or stone

SUBSTRATE CATEGORY III
Surfaces requiring only a cleaning and dusting
. Unsealed sand-finish cement stucco-Fast-WallTM and fibered cement
. Unsealed mud plasters
. Unsealed lime plaster
. Unsealed porous stone (e.g., cleft or tumbled stone)

Maintain room temperatures between 45 and 90 degrees (F.) during application, as well as 3 days before and after it.

Bring the materials into the room 24 hours before mixing to acclimate them to the ambient temperature.

Turn unopened containers upside down a couple of times to reduce clumping caused by settling during storage.

Protect floors with drop cloths or plastic.

1. Scrape off any loose or flaking paint or other surface material until you reach a well-bonded surface.

2. Knock down high points or protrusions of more than 1/16" with a wide putty knife, scraper, or drywall sanding screen.

3. Clean and fill any mortar joints and depressions deeper than 1/16" with a filler that bonds to the substrate, leveling them with the surface. For assistance in determining the appropriate filler,
see the instructions for the substrate.

4. Lightly sand any high-gloss paint with 150-grit sandpaper to provide a"tooth" for the American Clay Sanded Primer.

WARNING: If you scrape, sand, or remove old paint, you may release lead dust.Lead is toxic. Exposure to lead dust can cause serious illness, such as brain damage, especially in children. Pregnant women should also avoid exposure. Wear a NIOSH- approved respirator to control lead exposure. Clean up carefully with a HEPA vacuum and a wet mop. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself and your family by contacting the National Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or visit www.epa.gov/lead

5. Remove any dust with a vacuum or 6-8" paste brush

6. Wash sooty or greasy surfaces with a TSP substitute cleaner of your choice. Let dry.

7. Mask adjacent surfaces with painter's tape.

If the seams are already mudded, apply an undercoat of American Clay Sanded Primer, to all unsealed mudded surfaces (including fastener patches), let it dry, then undercoat the entire wall surface with American Clay Sanded Primer. when the undercoat is dry, apply the plaster according to "Apply American Clay Earth Plaster".

TAPING AND MUDDING JOINTS
Drywall or blueboard seams must be mudded. You can tape and mud with standard drywall compound or with natural joint compound.

Notes:
. Fasteners do not need to be mudded.
. Joint compound and plaster mudding does not need to be sanded.
. Ridges and protrusions in the mudding compound up to 1/16" and depressions up to 1/16" are acceptable.

Mudding with standard joint compound.
1. Perform General Preparation steps above, as appropriate.
2. Mud the joints with standard joint compound and reinforce them with joint tape (jute, paper or fiberglass scrim), filling the seam depressions level with the surrounding surface.
3. Let joint compound dry completely.
4. Pre-prime only the mudded seams with American Clay Sanded Primer (see directions below) and let this undercoat dry.
5. Apply a second coat of American Clay Sanded Primer-this time to the entire wall surface.
6. Let the undercoat dry.
7. Mix and apply the plaster following the instructions below.

Applies only to those surfaces listed in Substrate Category I on page 2. Skip this step if your surface is listed in Substrate Category II or III.

Surfaces must be clean, dry and free of dust and grease.

1. Stir American Clay Sanded Primer well, mixing all ingredients evenly.

2. Brush Sanded Primer along the edges of the wall, then roll or brush it on the remaining surfaces. Repeat for each wall you intend to plaster. Make sure all parts of the surface are covered-plaster will not bond to a surface that is not properly undercoated.

3. Let Sanded Primer dry for 3 hours. (Your wall may dry more or less quickly depending on temperature & humidity).

Clean up: Clean brush, roller, and roller pan with soap and warm water. Don't forget the corners

Note: For best results, mix the plaster and color 4Ð8 hours prior to application. Unlike other plasters, the workability of American Clay plasters improves the longer you let the mix stand. You can actually mix our plasters up to 24 hours before youÕre ready to start the job or at any convenient time 30 minutes or more before application. If the plaster thickens when standing or during application, just add additional water and remix to a pudding-like consistency.

If you are using American Clay Add-Mix as a hardening agent for Loma or Porcelina, see instructions on the following page.

In general, each 50 lb. bag or bucket of American Clay Earth Plaster should be mixed with approximately 2Ð3 gallons of water. You may need a bit more or less water to bring the plaster to the correct consistency (similar to pudding).

1. Measure 1-3/4 gallons of water (or Add-Mix) into a clean 5-gallon bucket, a 15- gallon plastic utility tub, or other suitable container. Slowly add about half of one 50 lb. container of American Clay Earth Plaster.

2. Prepare your plaster color by mixing water with the pigment in the American Clay Color Pack container. Stir well to create a smooth, thick paste, adding a little water, if necessary. Empty the paste onto the plaster, rinse the color pack with a bit of the water, and add this rinse to the plaster also.

3. Mix the plaster and color with a heavy-duty 1/2-inch drill equipped with a mixing paddle. Keep the drill at low speed to avoid introducing air into the mix. Continue to add all of the dry plaster from the 50lb bag, adding additional water until the plaster has the approximate consistency of pudding and the pigment is blended evenly throughout the plaster.

4. Let the plaster stand for at least 30 minutes. Before troweling it on the wall, check the plaster, adding water and remixing as necessary to bring it back to the consistency of pudding. 13/4 Gal. 13/4 Gal. 13/4 Gal.

For most walls, the recommended application is two thin coats-a base coat 1/32" to 1/16" thick of Loma, followed by a 1/32" finish coat of either Loma, Porcelina or Marittimo (about the thickness of a credit card). Over drywall, for example, the base coat should be 1/32" thick. Stuccoes or brown-coated surfaces will require a slightly thicker base coat. For all substrates, do not exceed 1/32" for the finish coat.

The sections below describe application with a trowel. If you are using spray equipment to apply the plaster, spray for complete coverage then trowel the surface or texture it to the desired finish.

APPLYING THE BASE COAT
(The base coat is always Loma regardless of your finish coat choice)

If you've applied an undercoat of American Clay Sanded Primer, do not mist the surface before plastering. Mist all other surfaces lightly with water.

1. Place a comfortable amount of plaster onto a 'Hawk'. Scoop a small amount of plaster from the 'Hawk' onto a trowel.

2. Starting at the bottom of the wall, spread the plaster with the trowel held at a 15° to 30° angle.

3. Work the plaster out on the surface of the wall until you have a smooth, thin coat. Don't rush-American Clay Earth Plasters have long working time and are very forgiving.

4. Using the same techniques, apply plaster in sections, always troweling on new plaster next to a section whose edge is still wet. Do not overwork the base coat-leave a slightly roughened texture on this coat so it has a "tooth" to which the finish coat can adhere.

5. Continue applying plaster to all walls. If you have to break your work into sections, always finish applying the base coat to one complete wall. Cover the plaster in the bucket during breaks so it retains its moisture.

6. Let the base coat dry. In no case should you apply the finish coat to a base coat that has not dried completely. If the base coat is not completely dry, the finish coat is likely to crack.

APPLYING THE FINISH COAT - AMERICAN CLAY LOMA

Many of the special effects American Clay plasters will produce are the result of varying the application of the finish coat or applying techniques while the finish coat is still pliable. Different finishing tools will produce different effects. We have listed the most common procedures below.

Make sure the base coat is dry before applying the finish coat.

Trowel on the finish coat (maximum 1/32") rewetting areas of the base coat as needed. We do not recommend wetting the base coat before applying the finish coat. If the plaster is "setting up" too fast, then misting the base coat can help.

Finishing an American Clay Earth Plaster after the finish coat dries compacts and strengthens the surface, reduces trowel marks and prevents dusting. For the product to be easily repairable this is critical.

Option 1: for a MATTE FINISH -
A. Let the finish coat dry until it is damp but firm enough that slight pressure from your thumb won't leave a thumbprint. Then lightly mist the surface and remove trowel marks (as desired) with a trowel held at a low angle (but not flat). Do not over-wet the surface during this step.
B. If surface cracks appear as the finish coat dries, mist them lightly with water and compress the cracks with your trowel.
C. Let the finish coat dry.
D. Using a well-wrung-out (nearly dry) tile sponge and with only light pressure, work the entire wall in overlapping circular patterns, compressing the surface and removing any of the loose sand.

Option 2: for a SANDED FINISH -
A. Let the finish coat dry until it is slightly resilient (will leave a thumbprint with mild pressure). Then lightly mist the surface and rub it with a tile sponge or stucco float. Do not over-wet the surface during this step.
B. Let the finish coat dry.
C. Using a well-wrung-out (nearly dry) tile sponge and with only light pressure, work the entire wall in overlapping circular patterns, compressing the surface and removing any of the loose sand.

Option 3: for a HARD-TROWEL FINISH -
A. Let the finish coat dry until it is damp but firm enough that slight pressure from your thumb won't leave a thumbprint. Then lightly mist the surface and remove trowel marks with a plastic trowel held at a low angle (but not flat). Do not over-wet the surface during this step.
B. Let the finish coat dry completely.
C. Then lightly mist the surface of the finish coat with a spray bottle.
D. Using a polycarbonate (lexan) or acrylic (plexiglass) plastic trowel and with steady pressure, re-trowel the surface in broad, overlapping arcs.
E. Repeat steps B, C and D until the desired smoothness and mottling is achieved.

Option 4: for a SKIP-TROWEL FINISH -
A. Lightly mist the base coat with a spray bottle.
B. Trowel on a finish coat (maximum 1/32") of American Clay Loma, leaving open areas that reveal the base coat in the pattern of your choice. The "skip" pattern can be as "sparse" or as "busy" as you wish, from several inches to a foot or more. As you trowel on the finish coat, compress the plaster, but do not cover the areas of the base coat you want revealed.
Let the finish coat dry.
C. Lightly mist the finish coat areas and work them with a plastic trowel to smooth the surface or use part "C" from "For a Sanded Finish" above to produce a coarse finish in the finish coat. Regardless of how you have finished the finish coat of American Clay Loma, let the surface dry a minimum of 12 hours.

Regardless of how you have finished the finish coat of American Clay Loma, let the surface dry a minimum of 12 hours.

APPLYING THE FINISH COAT - AMERICAN CLAY PORCELINA

Note: this critical step compacts and strengthens the surface, reduces trowel marks, and prevents dusting.

BURNISHED FINISH-
"Burnishing" a plaster finish refers to any process used to give it a polished sheen. American Clay Porcelina does not require burnishing with fine grit sandpaper. It only requires retroweling.

A. Apply American Clay Porcelina over a base coat of American Clay Loma to a maximum thickness of 1/32", troweling the surface evenly.
B. Let this finish coat dry.
C. When the finish coat is dry, rub it with a barely-damp sponge or lightly mist the surface, then work it with your trowel. Use a stainless steel trowel for dark colors, and a plastic trowel for light colors.
D. Before the surface dries, retrowel the surface, using fast arcing strokes. If the trowel is "sticking or grabbing" the plaster, it is too wet. Let the water evaporate for 10-30 seconds before proceeding with the burnishing.

APPLYING THE FINISH COAT - AMERICAN CLAY MARITTIMO

Note: this critical step compacts and strengthens the surface, reduces trowel
marks, and prevents dusting.

A. Apply American Clay Marittimo over a base coat of American Clay Loma to a maximum thickness of 1/32", troweling the surface evenly.
B. Let this finish coat dry.
C. When the second coat is dry, mist the surface lightly, then, compressing as
you go, work it with a stainless steel finishing trowel for dark colors and a plastic trowel for light colors.
D. Allow this reworked surface to dry and lightly rub with a nearly dry sponge in a random but complete pattern over the entire surface to reveal the shell and patina glow.

It is not necessary to seal an American Clay Earth Plaster except on the following surfaces:
. Walls on which you want a low or high-sheen
. Walls that may be exposed to high humidity or splashing water (around sinks and bathtubs) or splattering oils (behind cooktops or stoves) or in high-humidity climates.

Note: do not apply American Clay Gloss Sealer over bare plaster, as it will significantly darken the color of the surface. Always apply a first coat of Penetrating Sealer before applying Gloss Sealer. or use on a small test area if a color change is desired.

Even American Clay Penetrating Sealer may cause a slight color change on the plaster surface-always test and let it dry in an inconspicuous area prior to sealing any surface.

APPLYING AMERICAN CLAY PENETRATING SEALER AND
AMERICAN CLAY GLOSS SEALER

. Walls must be completely dry prior to application.
. Never apply the first coat with a sponge, brush, or roller-lap-marks will show. We recommend an airless sprayer with undiluted sealer but if you use a 'pump-style" garden sprayer, dilute the sealer with water at a ratio of 1:1.
. Protect adjacent surfaces that you do not want sealed.
. A minimum of 2 coats of American Clay Penetrating Sealer is recommended for increased hardness and water resistance. A second coat will produce a slight sheen. To minimize sheen, American Clay Gloss Sealer requires a base coat of American Clay Penetrating Sealer.
. Prior to sealing entire project test in an inconspicuous area to ensure the desired effect.

1. Remove loose material and dust with a vacuum or soft brush. Wear a dust mask if using a brush.
2. Stir well.
3. To minimize drips, spray with a sweeping side-to side motion, overlapping the spray pattern slightly and working from the bottom of the wall to the top.
4. Allow sealer to soak in for several minutes,
then lightly blot drips with a sponge.
5. Let first coat dry for 2 hours. Apply second coat when dry.
6. Let the final coat of sealer dry for 72 hours.
7. Clean tools immediately with soap and warm water.

Black Soap is an esthetic enhancer applied over American Clay Earth Plaster, it is not a sealant. It is soap, and it will activate with water or high humidity, it is not recommended for bathrooms or areas that get splashed with water.

To apply the Black Soap, it should be warm (put it in a microwave for 15 seconds, or the trunk of a car on a hot day). You can add up to about 50% water (2:1 two parts soap to one part water), this will make it flow more easily, but will lighten the effect of the soap.

The Black Soap should be put in a squeezable container (a honey/ketchup squeeze bottle, or a water bottle with a sport-like top). You can apply the Black Soap with a trowel or similar spreading utensil, this will give a more mottled appearance as the soap builds up on the leading and trailing edges of the trowel and penetrate causing darker areas. Applying the Black Soap with a hand evens out absorbtion, but excess soap should be removed from the surface with a trowel, moving the extra material into other areas of the wall.

We do not recommend using sponges or rags to apply the black soap as it could "open" the surface of the clay and roughen the texture.

Black soap can be washed off of the wall using copious amounts of water and a grout sponge (this should be done if you choose to seal the wall and paint, or if you are going to apply another coat of plaster over a soaped wall). This also makes the product very repairable, just add some more soap.

If an area gets splashed, you should use a barely damp sponge over the area in a non-circular motion, to even out the affected area. Then simply apply more soap. Always do a test sample to assure the desired effect.

Adding Mica to the finish coat of American Clay Earth Plaster creates a suble luster and depth to your wall. One container of Mica should be added to each 50 lb. container of finish coat plaster.

Adding straw to the finish coat of American Clay Earth Plaster gives the look of old adobe finishes. One container of straw should be added to each 50 lb. container of finish coat plaster just prior to application. Straw will mold if left in a wet plaster mixture for more than two days.

Existing sealed ACE plaster may be re-coated only after:

1. Adding a minimum of 30% Add-Mix hardener to the additional coats.
OR
2. Coating the wall(s) with ACE sanded primer.

ACE unsealed plaster will tolerate additional coats without further wall preparation.

American Clay Black soap is not a sealant, it is an aesthetic enhancer. It is not
recommended in high humidity areas or areas that may get splashed.

Clean any splashed plaster from adjacent unplastered surfaces with a damp sponge. Clean tools with water. Don't discard unused wet plaster-dry it on plastic sheets, rehydrate it at a later date (using the directions on page 9), and use it for touch ups.

NOTE: Always save at least 5 lbs. of each color used, so it will be available for later repair.

To repair American Clay Earth Plaster first decide how deep the damaged are is. If the damage is only to the top (finish) coat, and the surface has not been treated or sealed, then the are may not need more than to mist the area with water and sponge or trowel the area to remove the scratch. If the damage is through both layers of plaster, step by step instructions follow for raw (unsealed), and sealed or treated walls.

NOTE: Be sure to check that the area needing to be patched has no damage to the primed surface, cleaning the damaged area, and re-priming is always a good idea if you are unsure.

Dampen the area around the damage with a damp tile sponge or a spray bottle followed by a damp sponge. Work the area around the damage with the sponge until the material is "opened", or slightly rough. Take some of the left over product from the application and mix it to the consistency of Play Dough. Press in the material into the damaged area leaving it "proud" or slightly higher than the finished wall. Be sure to isolate the damaged area (do not try to "feather" the patch into existing finished wall) being sure to keep the patch to the area of damage. LET THIS DRY COMPLETELY!

After the area is dry, knock down the area that you left proud so that it is now slightly lower than the finished wall (you do this to control the thickness of the finish patch, as thickness will affect color and finish), with a trowel or small (2") putty knife, or sand paper. Roughen up the area around the patch with water and a sponge as mentioned above, apply a second coat of material to the patch (keeping it isolated to the damaged area). Let this completely dry. Mist the damaged area with water and a sponge, blending the edges into the finished wall. Let this dry completely. Then wet the area again matching the texture of the finished wall.

Repair walls as above with the following differences.

1. Sand the area around the patch as the first step-feathering the edges about a quarter of an inch to one inch in all directions, and sanding through (or breaking down with water) the sealer 2-4" around the patch. This gives you some raw material to work with as you blend the seam.

2. When you are finished with the patch, and the texture is matched to the finished wall, spray on more sealer in a four foot by four foot area around the patch, troweling in any excess sealer or drips that may have formed.

NOTE: We recommend that you dilute the sealer with 50%-75% water and add subsequent coats to achieve seal.